Wine consumption is changing. The industry hopes new trends will help it survive

Global wine consumption has been on a steady decline in recent years — and it’s forced the wine industry to adapt. Organic and orange wines, non-alcoholic options and high-end fine vintages are all seeing increased demand, as growing health awareness and rising inflation hit consumer habits.

Global wine production is expected to have fallen around 2% last year, hitting its lowest levels since 1961, according to the International Organization of Wine and Vine’s 2024 World Wine Production Outlook. Climate issues and adverse weather events played a big part in this drop, the industry organization said — especially in France, where output fell so significantly it was described as “substantially influencing the worldwide wine supply.”

The decline in production has come hand in hand with a fall in consumption, following both economic challenges and changes in drinking behavior. The latest statistics show that world wine consumption dropped by 2.6% in 2023 compared to 2022, when it was “already low.”

“People are actively trying to drink less,” Richard Halstead, COO of consumer research at alcohol industry research firm IWSR. While spirits like cognac and whiskey are still reserved for special occasions, drinks like wine and beer — which used to be the daily go-to — are feeling the pinch, he explained.

It’s sparked a change of focus for many in the wine industry, as wine becomes less of an everyday beverage and more of an occasional treat.

“The industry is thinking on how people can spend a bit more money on it, by making the product more interesting. You see characteristics like natural, organic, orange, low-intervention, wine a bit more artisanal in nature.” Halstead said. “People want to be in control, they are more interested in the product itself, rather than it simply being an alcohol delivery mechanism.”

This more specialized interest has driven growth in what used to be niche areas of winemaking. According to a study by market research firm Horizon, the size of the organic wine market will see a compound annual growth rate of 10.3% between 2024 and 2030, with Europe generating the largest revenue.

Orange wine — made when the skins are left on white wine grapes for longer — has also been enjoying significant growth.

Tatiana Fokina, CEO of Hedonism Wines, a spirits shop in Mayfair known for its rare offerings, said she has witnessed major shifts in wine sales since the store opened in 2012. In particular, she said people had started taking a deeper interest in finding out about the production process and origins of the wine they consume.

“I think people are much more educated about what they’re drinking. They are having better developed palates, they are learning a bit more about complex wines, possibly higher-level wines, rather than buying more of simple, lower-end wines,” she said.

The change comes as experts hope for a resurgence in the fine wine industry after an 11% fall in prices in 2024. According to experts, the demographics of fine-wine buyers is changing, with baby boomers (born between 1946 and 1964) “aging out” of the market, while younger generations are starting to engage, including through digital marketplaces which are helping to “democratize” access to the industry.

Fokina agreed that people were now willing to spend more on one good bottle of wine, rather than buying three of a lesser quality, for example. There is also a growing interest in half-bottles of wine, she said, as people don’t necessarily want to open a full bottle of wine on, for example, a Tuesday night.

Gen Z — often defined as those born between 1996 and the 2012 — now account for 45% of drinkers, and, in a stark contrast to their parents, they cite wellbeing as a driving force behind their behavior. According to research from Mintel, those aged 20-24 in the U.K. are half as likely to purchase alcoholic beverages than those from older generations, with one reason being the desire to prioritize lifestyle and wellness choices.

The ISWR noted that, as the alcohol-free drinks market undergoes a ” transformative period of growth,” wine is taking the lead. The organization expects the market to grow at a compound growth rate of around 12% between 2023 and 2027, compared to a growth rate of 2% for beer and cider.

Michel Doukeris, CEO of the world’s largest brewer AB InBev, struck a bullish tone on non-alcoholic drinks in a recent interview with CNBC. He highlighted the importance of social occasions to consumers and said alcohol-free options were enabling people to continue to socialize.

“Usually, they could not drink because they need to drive home. Now they can drink non-alcohol beer, socialize with friends. Still drive and go home,” he said, adding that many people were adapting their routines by turning to non-alcoholic drinks.